Substrate
No amount of lath will make up for structural movement
if stucco is applied over an unstable substrate. If there's any sign of green or wet lumber in the frame, you can be sure
there will be problems with your stucco as the studs dry and the building moves.
Ingredients
Fresh cement, clean sand, and clean water are essential.
If the Portland cement is old or has been exposed to moisture, it may be partially hydrated. If there are lumps or "rocks"
in the sack, throw it away and get fresh cement.
If the sand doesn't meet ASTM (American Society for
Testing and Materials, also called ASTM International) specs for plaster, don't use it. Dirty sand (sand with clay, silt,
or excessive fines in it) will make it hard to predict the amount of water required for a workable mix and make quality control
difficult. Dirty sand also greatly increases the likelihood of cracking for similar reasons. Excessive salts in the sand make
stucco "bloom" or effloresce.
And if the water isn't clean enough to
drink, don't use it to mix stucco.
Papering & Flashing
If there's one place extra diligence pays off, it's
proper papering and flashing. Carelessness or poor skills are at the root of almost every moisture control problem I see in
stucco--or any other siding for that matter. I frequently encounter failed stucco applications where the source of the problem
is at windows, doors, utility penetrations, parapets, and corners--or anyplace where paper or flashing was improperly installed.
The paper layer is typically made up of two layers
of Type-D asphalt building paper or a weather-resistant barrier like synthetic housewrap for stucco. This, along with appropriate
flashing, must be applied in a weatherboard fashion--just like shingles on a roof. If moisture does get behind the stucco--and
it will--a barrier installed this way will channel that moisture back out of the building without the water contacting the
sheathing or framing.